There’s a dessert company in Fishtown that melds the cultures – and flavors – of Vietnam, America, France and Scotland.
Loc Pham founded Philly Cookie Company in 2021 during the COVID pandemic. He had always loved Scottish shortbread, and has more than a decade’s worth of experience in baking, pastries and food science. Having moved from Vietnam to the U.S. when he was 4, he brought the traditions of his home with him, including the history of Vietnam’s nearly 100-year French colonial past – and its pastries, breads and butter.
“My memories of Vietnam are mostly family. However, food has always caught my interest, even as a toddler in Vietnam,” he said.
Pham’s family was given special refugee status in the U.S. because his grandfather worked for an American company. He lived in Collingswood first, then Woodlynne when he was 10 years old. But he recalled Woodlyne being “a very tough town,” and he grew up getting into a lot of fights.
“So, my mom would keep me in the house,” he said, which is when he started baking. “Yeast breads really interested me, so I started baking yeast leavened breads at 11-12 years old.”
Pham graduated from Collingswood High School, Class 2006, where he was a standout football, rugby and bowling team member.
He calls his career trajectory thereafter “a steep rollercoaster ride.”
“I worked super hard to learn the art of baking, then mastered the skills and mindset to run a baking operation. Then I abandoned it to pursue my food science career. I was able to achieve a top managerial role at a well-known food processor. Then, I was set up by someone and forced out of my position for discovering horrible secrets. Back to the bakery life, back to working like a dog. Then I decided to start Philly Cookie Company,” he said.
His passion led him toward shortbread because he remembers Walker’s Shortbreads as the best cookie he tried upon coming to America.
“The pastries in America in the ‘90s were super sweet, so the Walker’s Scottish shortbreads stood out.”
Pham’s shortbread recipe is a variation of Walker’s, using dark brown sugar and a noticeable amount of salt. He said shortbread is not difficult to make, and his Classic Original recipe has only four ingredients.
“We prefer less sugar and more butteriness. Our Cinnamon Sugar Shortbread is the epitome of American baking. The French hate how we abuse cinnamon in America – but I like cinnamon because I was raised in America,” he said.
He also explained that shortbread cookies are much more buttery than traditional cookies, which is why “the butter has to shine through.”
“And the secret is making thousands of them at a time and not making a mistake. Dough temperature is crucial,” he said.
Over time, Pham has developed 12 flavors, but said he realized that was too much for wholesale. He retired 8 flavors, and teased he may bring them back eventually. Currently on the menu are Classic Original, Cinnamon and Almond Honey; they are also available in a three-flavor, 24-count sampler box.
He has his sights set next on a Pho-flavored shortbread.
“I’ve made some prototypes. Some people like it, some people don’t like it. It’s a tricky flavor for me,” he said, though no stranger to a challenge.
Aside from wholesale, Pham has completed special request orders for celebrations such as weddings, birthdays, bridal showers and other catered events. He will also fulfill custom orders, especially for cafes, restaurants and shops.
“Asian-inspired flavors have been really popular, especially ube,” he said.
That has helped Philly Cookie Company become “world famous;” a few cases were sent to South Korea last year thanks to Kenzo Foods and Kensington Food Company – which is Pham’s national distributor, and which also sells the shortbread at its retail storefront in Reading Terminal Market.
Locally, Philly Cookie Company products can be found at Haddon Culinary in Collingswood as well as the following locations in Pennsylvania: Klein’s Supermarket, Castellino’s Fishtown, Knockbox Café, Vientiane Bistro, Sunday Girl Café, Bean2Bean Café inside the Billy Penn Studio, Riverwards Produce, Omoi Life Goods, Breezy’s Deli, Hank’s Bubble Tea on Temple University’s campus Anderson/Mazur Hall/The Wall, Philly Shared Retails inside the Willow Grove Mall, Third Wheel Cheese, Queen and Rook, Made with Love Juicery, Nutmeg Bar and Market, South Sichuan, Lucky’s Last Stand, FaceClock Gallery and Curds and Whey.
The cookies are also distributed across 10 states: Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Florida, California, Texas, Illinois, West Virginia, Oklahoma, Virginia and North Carolina.
When he’s not in the kitchen, you’ll find Pham at Barcade in Fishtown, playing pinball and having a drink; or at his friend’s restaurant, Streetside on West Girard Avenue.
He’s also an original member of Operation in my Backyard, a nonprofit group doing outreach and pushing for harm reduction.
“I am a firm believer in harm reduction because I’ve had many friends die from overdose. The opioid epidemic destroyed my generation, and when I discovered harm reduction, it showed me an alternative treatment/philosophy. I donate cookies to local charities that I align with all the time,” he said.
For more on Philly Cookie Company, visit phillycookie.com, email hello@phillycookie.com or call 609-332-6628.
