A Generous Spirit

Suraya brings old-world Lebanese recipes to an elegant restaurant hotspot

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Smoke from the wood-fired grill sets the tone at the renowned restaurant Suraya, where Lebanese dishes — from charred kebabs to a dry-aged ribeye — anchor a menu built for sharing. Other standouts include fatteh, baba ganoush, kawarma, djej meshwi, and the beloved dessert kennefeh.

Pastry chef James Matty’s work appears throughout the day, from the pita that lands on every table at each meal period to weekend-only pastries. “On the beverage front, we’re proud of our selection of Lebanese wines, arak, and cocktails like The Poet, The Golden Belt, and Chateau Musar,” Nick Kennedy, one of the partners behind the restaurant, said.

Chefs can accommodate most dietary restrictions, and while there is no dedicated kids’ menu, younger diners gravitate toward pastries, mezze, and kebabs. Suraya also hosts occasional wine dinners and culinary collaborations, offering guests new ways to experience the menu.

The restaurant’s warm, welcoming approach extends beyond the plate. “We hope that everyone who walks through our door is met with thoughtful hospitality and delicious food and drinks,” said Kennedy. “The beautiful thing about Suraya is that you can have so many dining experiences depending on the day, time, and season. In the warmer months, our garden seating is the perfect place for wine and some mezze bites; for dinner, the Taste of Suraya menu is a great way to get the full experience.”

“The space itself echoes Lebanese influence across thoughtfully chosen custom decor elements and Middle Eastern ingredients and products stocked on the shelves of the market,” the restaurateur Roland Kassis added. “The light-filled space transitions seamlessly from day to night.”

That sense of graciousness is rooted in family history. During wartime in Lebanon, Kassis’ grandmother, Suraya, fed allies and enemies alike. Inspired by her remarkable hospitality and generous spirit, Kassis and his business partners — Greg Root, Al Lucas, and Kennedy — named this restaurant in her honor, guided by the belief that everyone deserves a seat at the table.

The four men are part of Defined Hospitality, a group formed in 2016 to “bring together decades of experience across front- and back-of-house operations,” Root said. Suraya’s market and café opened in November 2017, followed by the restaurant and garden in May 2018.

“Philadelphia is our home, and we saw the need for incredible dining experiences to land in Fishtown at that time,” Lucas said. He added that Kassis already had a high profile of real estate properties in the area.

Photos by Jamie Stow

The restaurant features a 107-seat indoor dining room, a 14-seat bar, and 10 counter seats serving brunch, lunch, and dinner. The garden accommodates an additional 88 guests. The space is also available for semi-private events, full buyouts, and gatherings for parties of 13 to 40.

Kennedy worked closely with Kassis and his mother, Maude, to incorporate family recipes into the menu — now executed daily by chef de cuisine Rob Wolff and general manager Patrick Donnellon.

True to the legacy of its namesake, Suraya remains committed to giving back to its neighborhood. The restaurant supports organizations including Liguori Academy, Sharing Excess, Reed’s Organic Farm, and MANNA.

“Our values align at the intersection of feeding people, sustainability, and giving back to our shared community,” Lucas said.

The Hook | Issue 7

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