Pink shoes? That’s right. Full description: Pink high button shoes – 12 buttons with scalloped edging.
Where did a woman go in pink shoes in the 18th and 19th centuries? That’s a question that Dianne Snodgrass, the society’s Collections Chair who put the exhibit together, ponders?
“Maybe not outside …,” she said, and if needed, there were things like the Patten and Clogs to protect the shoes. More on that later!
These pink shoes were worn by a Mrs. John Wood, who lived at 209 Kings Highway West. It was circa 1870. Donor of the shoes was Marion C. Nicholson Wood.
The pair of pink shoes was one of several shoes that the Historical Society of Haddonfield put on display during the 240 Years of Women’s Footwear exhibit circa 1740 to 1970 from January through June 7.
All the pairs of shoes that were on display had a connection to Haddonfield in one way or the other. Each shoe had a description, time period and the person who donated the shoes, if applicable.
The oldest shoe on display was a slipper circa 1740 donated by Miss Amelia Robinson. The society only has one of the pair – a slipper, brocade (ecru, lavender, grey), straight last, French heel, pointed toe, large metal (most likely “pinchbeck”) buckle.
Along with the shoes, the exhibit provided a wealth of information about the evolution of the shoe from “Two Centuries of Costume in America” by Alice Morse Earle, which was published a century ago.
“She was 100 years closer to shoes that we are displaying,” Snodgrass relayed. “She had some interesting things to say.”
The term slipper was used to refer to any type of indoor shoe until the late 19th century. The term “Shoes” was used for outdoor wear and made of tougher materials.
The English word for slippers – “Sclyppers” – was used from circa 1478. English speakers also used the French word “Pantoufle.” It means slip shoe – to easily come off.
According to historical records, shoemakers began using distinct left and right lasts early in the 19th century. Philadelphia cobbler William Young is often credited as one of the first to adopt this practice circa 1817; this practice became more wide spread circa 1850.
Flat shoes for the left and right feet were common until heels were introduced circa 1580. At this time in Europe demand for footwear increased so much that their expanding market could not keep up. Single straight lasts were used until circa 1915.
Late 17th century to Early 18th century
Footwear: boots, shoes, bushkins, startups, slippers, pantofles. Definition of bushkins: in America, leather soles, cloth uppers like leggings to the knees and fastened with laces. Startups: similar but heavier than above. Pegged wood soles and laced to knees.
Timeline with definitions
- 1712 – very pointed toes, no heels on slippers, red heels were the fashion trend.
- 1740 – advertisement “mourning shoes, fine silk shoes, flowered russet shoes, white callimanco shoes.
- Mid 1700s – slippers (slip-shoes), embroidered vamps, high heels, very thin soles of light weight material, Pantofles, very fancy and embroidered, buckles made of “pinchbeck” (copper and zinc).
- 1790 – heels disappeared, buckles replaced by shoe strings, decorated with bows or pleated ribbon edging, narrow soles, squared toes.
- Circa 1805 – ladies in New England were making their own shoes – very thin materials, no heels, simple in shape.
Calamanco, Prunella & Pinchbeck defined
Calamanco – made in the U.S.A., a sturdy, egalitarian everyday shoe of worsted wool with shiny finish. Black calamanco was equivalent to today’s black pumps and a wardrobe staple which crossed social cultures. It also came in reds, yellows, and green by 1750s. Worn by such women as Martha Washington, Dorothy Hancock, Abigail Adams, Dorothy Quincy in Revolution era. It made them feel patriotic.
Prunella – made from 17th to early 20th century, worsted fabric shoe, no sole, blacked tipped leather toes and heels. These were considered an everyday shoe, Snodgrass said.
Christopher Pinchbeck, who lived in the 18th century, was a London watch maker. He invented a metal of copper and zinc, which was used for shoe buckles. Could be plated with gold or silver.
One pair of shoes of interest was believed to be a pair of lady’s beach shoes from an unknown donor made of black cloth; laced ties; very thin soles.
“There is still white sand under the inner soles,” Snodgrass added, noting it was part of a woman’s swimming costume circa 1900.
About shoe labels
Before mass production of shoes after the Industrial Revolution, shoemakers had small businesses. Many ladies ordered custom made shoes. The earlier dated shoes have no labels. Below is a list of labels from the exhibited shoes from after the mid-19th century
- Laird Scholler, Co. – Krupp & Tuffly, Houston, Texas.
- Partridge & Richardson, Philadelphia – bought out by Strawbridge & Clothier in 1904.
- Sollers & Co. Philadelphia – S.A. – manufacturer of children’s fine shoes – Philadelphia – Dates of opening and closing not found.
- The Selby Shoe Co. – A notable shoe manufacturer based in Portsmouth, Ohio and Ashland, Kentucky – 1851-1957.
- Strawbridge & Clothier, Philadelphia – it was a major department store chain in Philadelphia. It emphasized low prices, high quality and cash sales. It opened in 1868 and closed in 2006.
- Laird Schober Co. – was the original, ultra luxury designer of women’s foot-wear brand since 1870. Founded in Philadelphia by three young men in their mid- 20s. Closed doors in 1965.
More or less at the same time in the latter part of the 18th century, woman, rather than go and buy a pair of shoes, they would go to the different trades:
Trades using Leather
- Shoemakers
- Cordwainers
- Curriers
- Casemakers
- Woolcarders
- Wool shuttles
- Bookbinders
- Saddlers
- Upholsterers
- Boxmakers
- Harnesses
- Glovers
- Budgetmakers
- Trunkmakers
- Beltmakers
- Coachmakers
- Cabinets
- Scabbards
What is a Shoe Last?
Shoe lasts are forms shaped like a human foot. They were carved from wood and were used by shoemakers – Cordwainers. Leather or other material was draped around the last and worked to fit. Lasts came in all sizes. Some lasts were iron. Today they are plastic.
The term “Last” comes from the Old English word “Laest” which means footprint.
Until the early 19th century generally lasts were straight, meaning there was no distinction between the left and right foot shape. Philadelphia cobbler, cordwainer William Young is often credited for adopting the new practice of using distinct left and right foot shaped lasts around 1817. This trend became more widespread about 1850.
Examples of shoe lasts can be seen in the society’s Cellar Tool Collection for cordwainers and Tradesman from 1629.
Compare sole thickness
Have you noticed how thin the soles are on the 18th and 19th century shoes compared to those of the 20th century? There is an interesting explanation.
The ladies who wore these indoor shoes were not expected to go walking outside, especially in mud, rain, snow, ice. Inclement weather kept them inside. If going out was necessary, two different types of footwear were available to them.
The Patten – which has 17th and 18th century notations, had thick, wood soles, shaped like a foot mounted on an oval ring of iron and fastened by two or three brass nails to the side. This elevated the wearer’s foot at least two inches off the ground. Keeping her toe on, the wearer would slip her foot in the pattern that had a leather strap over the toe. Buckles, straps or strings held the shoe’s head in place. Walking in these were clumsy – was very awkward. Wearing them did keep the shoes from damage. Patten comes from the French word “patin” which can mean the sole of a shoe or skate.
They made walking noisy and awkward and they were ugly.” Mentions are made of twisted ankles and cuts on the foot, according to the history.
The Clogs were wood shoes, shed with iron. These were heel-pieces with straps. Some were fancier with brass tips and colored ties. Clogs could be made in two pieces and were lower to the ground than pattens. This type of outer shoe wear was worn throughout the 18th century in America due to unpaved streets. Heavy soled women’s shoes were rare.
The Historical Society of Haddonfield is located at 343 Kings Hwy. E. The Archives Center is open for walk-in researchers, on Thursday (10 a.m. to noon), Saturday (noon to 3 p.m.), and by appointment. Greenfield Hall is open for tours Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, and by appointment.
